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Adventure Apprentice on tour: Blog 8

Party Bus...

Hello Everyone,     We are saying farewell to Agra today, and heading out west via Fatehpur Sikri The abandoned city of Akbar The Great, to Bharatpur Keoladeo Ghana National Park where we will spend the night .   The lost city of Fatehpur Sikri is immaculate. It was deserted only 16 years after completion in 1569ad due to fresh water complications but its spectacular court and palaces leave an outstanding legacy to this great emperor. It is said that dancing girls were used as human chess pieces on its checkered inner court floor whilst musicians played on the sandstone island surrounded with fountains......our Guide here is the Iman who I have to say was amazing. Iman is from the villages which now surround this once great City, his knowledge and command of our language is extraordinary as he takes us back in time ...close your eyes and you can hear the giggle of the dancing girls, the musicians master their song , whilst the sun beats down in its non forgiving way.  

After the palaces comes the Great mosque, once again we are thrown into the throng of Hawkers and beggars. We have had to remove our shoes here, and the sandstones is red hot under our toes....as we try and navigate our way on the patchwork areas of shade that surround the area, whilst bemused Indians look on wondering what is the new dance we are all trying to perform !  very funny indeed   Again we bid farewell to Iman and embark on what is again comparatively short journey to Bharatpur Ghana National Park, but TII (this is India) so will take several hours along what is now the Rural (bumpy) roads of Rajasthan.

Bharatpur is the ornithologists dream land with over 300 different species of birds, this once Duck shooting reserve is now a tranquil world heritage site protecting the very many species that were hunted here. The most spotted species were the Cranes as they perched like giant pink winged balloons from the trees before taking off and swooping down into the lake beneath to catch the odd meal.   Cycle rickshaws are used to navigate the peaceful paths, our turban clad rickshaw driver who sported a wonderful Rajasthani styled moustache left in convoy along with the rest of the group pointing out the various different birds along the way until sunset where we headed off back to our resort styled hotel for the small drinks party that Rafeeq and I had organised on the Bus for us this evening . This was huge fun and we were able to have a good laugh and get to know Suman and Irshad  as they played host to this short but much enjoyed merriments.   Early Start in the morning for our continuing westerly road trip towards the Forts and palaces of Karauli...  

Love to everyone Christine

 

Adventure Apprentice on Tour: Blog 7

Build something to remember me by....

Hi Everyone,     After the meal, we had a bit of a celebration not only because we had made it in one piece to Agra, but it was one of the group members birthday Rafeeq had already ordered the cake so it was just a case of tucking in to the delicious choclate offering..   So the word on everybodies lips was what are we gonna do without the bus.....Rafeeq had already advised me that the bus had been fixed and was already on its way and that by the time we had finished the meal the bus would be outside but not to tell the group as he wanted it to be a surprise ... It's amazing how quickly things are fixed in India and what with !!! so true enough, we all left the restaurant and sure enough to everyone's suprise there was our precious bus ... with Suman and Irshad. I dont think that anyone truly believed that it was fixable with such a short turn around but hey TI I (this is India right!)   

Taj Mahal  

Next Morning sure enough, there was the dreaded 0500 wake up call,up and out by 0530 to get to the Taj for Sunrise ... the challenge is to get there early enough to be the first in the queue so that you get to be the first in the gate and and snap away at the most photographed structure in the world without the blemish of another Human being in the shot !!! now what you dont know is that the queue should you miss the 1st place is massive and much jostling takes place to see who can be the 1st tour group to establish pole position. Well needless to say because we have the marvellous Rafeeq we were indeed head of the queue he jollied us up on the march down as there were a German group hot on our heels !!   I got the lead of the ladies queue and the other girls of our group fell in behind me ...Michael, created the men's queue and there we stood waiting to be frisked and the opportunity to run like the wind once inside to be the 1st in....Michael and I got chatting to the doorman .... who with a nod and a wink (not to mention a mit full of Rupees) got the chance to be the only people inside for a couple of minutes to get those all important photo's.  

  The Taj is simply beautiful. This is my 3rd visit and it never ever fails to render me speechless . It's tranquility and beauty seem to take over and a rush of melancholy engulfs your soul, build something to remember me by ... the dying wish of Mumtaz Mahal wife of Shah Jahan so he did and what an accomplishment and dedication in the honour of Love.   Back from the Taj to the Raj (our hotel the Raj Mahal) to feast on a much needed breakfast and a short rest, then out in the afternoon for the Red fort and some optional extra excursions the opportunity to tackle the ever crazy traffic of Agra to visit the Baby Taj and the view form the opposite bank of the Yamuna River overlooking the The Taj for sunset...ahhh !!   Love to everyone   Christine

Taj_Mahal tour

 

Village Elders & Camel carts……

Hello Everyone


Its a 6hr drive from Bharatpur to Karauli. Suman has prepared the bus brilliantly and we have lots of cold bottled water and a clean bus ready for the road less travelled. The view from the windows has changed dramatically as we are now in the deepest rural parts of the majestic Rajasthan. What was continual road chaos is now a lot quieter, the methods of transport have changed too as we are one of a very few motorised vehicles in preference to the Camel and bullock trucks towing just about every commodity known …… however let me just say one thing and remind everyone that this isn’t the M1  … after about an hour in to the journey, tarmac becomes a rare sight and if it is then its in really bad repair ..our expert Driver  Irshad navigates the best he can but the roads are tough going and arduous for the Bus… we as ever are too busy enjoying the view and each others company to care…busy pointing and commentating on the forever changing canvas around us.

We take a rest stop and continue until Rafeeq pulls the bus over at an approaching village. When I say village in mean a small enclave area with 3/4 families all living together, in mud & brick huts, bullocks, goats and water buffalo tethered to trees, Wide eyed children in barefoot wonderment at the approaching strangers . Rafeeq has a quick and elaborate conversation with the Elder member of the village and it is approved for us to enter and look around …. this is just an amazing experience the families are all smiles and full of grace, the children shy at first but curious none the less intrigued by everything about us…. our clothes ..our cameras… our voices… our skin… wow what an opportunity this is .

So it’s back on the Road and we eventually arrive in the incredible Town of Karauli. This is different from anything we have been to before and dates back to the 13thC .. Tonight we are staying in a heritage property . A heritage property is a an old palace or lodge that has been transferred into a Hotel or guest house . This Hotel was once an old Maharajah hunting Lodge and has all the furniture and fixtures and fittings to match. Huge stuffed Tigers adorn the antique style lobby and ornate black and white Photographs of Old India with Eyes of times past staring back at you … doing the check in here is slightly different as each room is entirely different and offers a unique stay …to make it fair we have decided to register everyone in the usual way but instead of allocating the rooms I will put all of the keys in a bowl and get the team to pull out their own key …it would be unfair to allocate in such a unique environment….. with all keys distributed and the group on their way to their rooms it was time for Rafeeq and I to sit down, catch up on our game plan and sip some ice lime water, in, lets describe it as the Maharajahs’ Snooker room !!

It was arranged that the group were to meet at 4pm for the afternoon’s guided tour of the Palaces and forts of Karauli, with a twist. We weren’t going to be doing this with a normal method of transport… but on the back of camel carts no less. 1 camel with like a flat wooden plank attached to wheels on top of the plank was a blanket where 4 people plus the camel driver could sit, so again in convoy 5 individual camel carts pulling our delighted group up through the narrow streets and markets of Karauli …from the minute we set off we were surrounded by children running after us …shouting ‘Hello Hello’ and waving furiously …the local people bemused to say the least at this spectacle as we climbed camel speed through the hilly town . It felt like the whole town stopped and came and watched like a long awaited carnival was finally arriving into town totally enthralled with us and enjoying our ever so bumpy but memorable journey…again we were surrounded with cars, rickshaws, motorbikes ,cows goats…also were enjoying our long slow busy colourful path to the top .


All my Love
Christine

 

Adventure Apprentice on Tour: Blog 6

Hello again everyone  

OK so there we were, our bus pulled alongside this bedlamic Indian Road. People, Buses ,Lorries, donkeys, cows ,tuk-tuks,rickshaws  you name it they were there. Rafeeq and I looked at each other his words were, 'ok partner lets go .....'   We asked the group just to stay in their seats for a couple of mins whilst we came up with an instant plan, Rafeeq advised he would do the logistics.  This was sense as he had all the numbers and my Hindi comprises of 2 words neither of which would have got us very far !!!, and I was to take care of the group.   I address the group and explained that Rafeeq was calling Delhi, as we weren't sure if it was a quick fix..we had broken down right ouside a roadside repair workshop which was lucky. This workshop compised of a lot of canvas stretched over wooden poles with a lot of engine parts spreadout on the groud and a couple of upsidedown Tuk-tuks, and tractors. There seemed to be a lot of grease and hammering involved. Meanwhile Suman and Irshard were busy trying to establish what had happened.  

All the group were enjoying this temporary delay ...people watching and enjoying the interaction of the local folk, who, I dearsay are still talking about the day the bus of tourists came to stop !!! Rafeeq had arranged for alternative transport ..it was now past 1700 and we had to get the group to Agra..the sun would be going down and it would be getting dark very soon. It was arranged for 3 vehicles 1 x for all our luggage ..1 x 12 seater and 1 x 6 but they were in Agra the opposite direction and would be 2hrs in the now rush hour traffic.  

I organised the water and made sure that the cold stocks were distributed asap, I sprayed the bus with Mossi repellent and encouraged the group to stretch their legs. The environment outside wasnt hostile we were of much fascination with the beautiful children who by know had finished school and word had spread about the stranded tourists...not to mention the 15 or so Indian Motor repair guy's who with much head wobbling,loud voices and gesticulation were trying to repair our bus.   Suman stayed with me and we kept an eye on the group, this wasnt hard work as most members were experienced Explore travellers and were thoroughly enjoying the goings on. We had local indian cardamon chai offered by the locals in clay cups the children queued to have their picture taken in raptures that we could show them what they looked like on the digital screens.  

The cars arrived we all stood in a line and in a chain emptied the back of the bus and loaded the luggage vehicle (teamwork), at around 1945 all the vehicles were with us, I organised the groups I took the 12 seater the 6 were going to follow us and Rafeeq went with the luggage. Jaded, but still with humour we all finally made our way to Agra.   We arrived at 2200. Rafeeq had already organised the meal for tonight. The group had 10 mins to wash their hands whilst I sorted the check in and gave them their keys, we were all very tired but jubilant that we had made it and the drama all seemed to have become another part of our experience...making it to the restaurant we drank beer and discussed the events ..knowing that we would be getting wake up calls for 0500 the following day to get to the Taj.     Beer has never tasted so good.    

The question was would our bus ever get to Agra.. would we ever see the forever smiling Suman and our excellent driver Irshad again ??   TBC    

All the best Christine

 

Adventure Apprentice on tour: Blog 5

Monday 18th Oct    

Hello Everyone   

I havent introduced you to the rest of the Explore ! Team....Rafeeq you all know as head Tour leader .. we also have Irshad the Driver of our much needed bus, Suman who is our conductor his job is to take care of all the behind the scenes things like keeping us in fresh cold water etc. Also each town we arrive in we have a Guide and since yesterday we have with us for our time in Delhi Prashanto who is genning us all up on the sights and sounds of both Old and New Delhi. Hes been a really fantastic guide and genuinely a lovely guy.  

So today is the tour of old Delhi, in order to get there we have today used the Delhi Metro...oh what a challenge, if you think that the London Underground is busy then x 10 for Delhi..the best thing about the Metro here is the lady only carriages, so picture the scene. The carriages are filled with these beautiful elegant Sari clad Indian Ladies enter 9 rather bewildered Brits with their backpacks on the front in case of pickpockets...the carriages are already absolutely crammed in order to board the train and not get seperated from the rest of the group ie the men we have to literally launch ourselves into the throng of rather Bemused Ladies !!!  Then into that mix a couple of Indian men seeing that the Lady only carriages are no where near as full as the male carriages follow suit much to the distaste of one particular Indian Lady who very gently and with a wobble of the head (indian style) advised that they were not welcome !  

2 stops down and we arrive in the indescribable old Delhi... Now I cannot for the life of me begin to even put this into words that will give you you even one tenth of what is really like there. Imagine a bustling open air Souk type environment over head are the electric cables that literally in places make the Sky go black with their density and thickness Lord alone knows what happens in the Monsoon....its a miracle that no one gets electrocuted....So in order to have the true experience we all jump on the back of Pedal Rickshaws with drivers and head off into the throng of alley-ways and mayhem. I have managed to video record the whole experience which I will show you on return ..you have to remember that we are not alone in these alley ways there are also motor cycles, people rickshaws going the opposite direction & lots of shops and traders  ...etc and at points its only wide enough for 1 rickshaw..its  an experience of a life time ..the smells,colours and the noise its all going on !   We finally emerge from the Alleys and end up at the Great Mosque which will accommodate 20,000 worshippers (in other word its HUGE) where we ladies have to donn what can only be described as Hospital Gowns..glamorous moment !!  From The great Mosque we then need to embark on a bit of a road trip to take us to Agra where tomorrow we get to the Taj Mahal.

The Road between Delhi and Agra is 240km but Indian roads and chaotic traffic this will take us approx 5hrs, the plan is to stop midway for food and comfort break to get us to Agra for no later than 18.30ish 19.00 top line. Where we can check in to a nice Hotel get a good meal, and an early night as we need to up at 0500 for the Taj tomorrow Sunrise .  

Best Laid plans .....  

Ok so we get Half way no problem other than we are held up a little as the Delhi Traffic is horrendous coming through the South, we make the rest stop get drinks and food and a chance to strech our legs, the road speed here is no more than 50 and also the infrastructure isnt marvellous so all in all its ok . At around 16.15, we are driving through the bustling if not slightly industrial town  of Kosi ..where all of a sudden our precious bus coughs slightly billows out a whole heap of smoke and grinds to a halt.   Now the tourist buses here especially the 20 seater type like ours see the driver and front passenger in only what can be described as a seperate compartment ..there is a panel of glass so you can see through the windscreen and then a glass door behind the front seat , we all sat and watched speechless as this compartment filled with smoke as our bus decided that Agra wasnt on its agenda.  

18 passengers going to Agra whilst our bus went to pieces.  

TBC.....     Christine

 
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