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Escape to Sri Lanka

Travelling without her family was a bold step for Sarah Bravo - but a Sri Lankan adventure turned out to be the trip she never knew she needed.
Written by: Sarah Bravo
Date Published: 16 July 2024
 

The full-length article can be read in issue five of The Explorer magazine.

I’d fantasised about going to Sri Lanka for years. Not just for the white sands and palm trees. My grandfather, a captain in the British Navy, had been stationed there in 1942. His war diaries had captivated me as a child, stories of his 'beloved Ceylon’, his ‘enchanted island’.

The faded photographs of him in Kandy and on the beach in Galle felt like an invitation. So why not now? Before I could change my mind, I was booked onto an Explore small group tour with a grin on my face (and a knot in my stomach).

Confession: I’d never been away from my family for more than two nights before, and as the departure date crept closer, I was riddled with self-doubt. It wasn’t until the plane had taken off that I was able to focus on my adventure ahead...

Preparing for the trip had been unnervingly easy, but I was still apprehensive. My knowledge of Sri Lanka was minimal: I knew the country was off the southern tip of India. I knew that it's smaller than Ireland. I knew that the 2004 tsunami, 2019 terrorist attacks and the COVID-19 pandemic had affected their tourism business badly.

But I was soon to learn how resilient and hospitable the Sri Lankan people are, with their gentle Buddhist culture, laid-back way of life and respect for the natural world. 

"Wandering the streets of Kandy at sundown, thousands of starlings took over the sky and drowned out the noise of the tuk-tuks."

The gentle nature was apparent on meeting my tour leader at the airport. A man of experience (and excellent stories), nothing was too much trouble for Amare. From the get-go I felt safe in his hands, and happy to hand over any control I would usually exercise on our own family holidays (and how liberating that felt!). 

It turns out there’s nothing more welcoming than a tour leader who tells you every day what to wear (for temples: shoes off, no naked shoulders, no knees uncovered), what to pack (mosquito repellent, spare socks for hot floors), what to avoid (dogs without collars, no selfies with a Buddha, take your room key out onto your balcony in case the door shuts) and what to tip (we don’t – everyone contributes to a kitty which is handed out to the relevant services).

I discovered my group were Explore veterans, half a dozen trips under their belts at least, and were as knowledgeable and as reassuring as our tour leader. One delicious local beer down and I realised I hadn’t thought about the kids for hours. 
Often referred to as South Asia in miniature, Sri Lanka packs a lot in such a small space. The tour I had chosen, Highlights of Sri Lanka, reflected this, covering national parks, culture, city, and coast over a busy five days. First stop: Wilpattu National Park. The diversity of the island astonished me, watching through the window of our bus as the landscape changed from turquoise waters to misty mountains to lush jungles in a matter of hours. 

The park itself felt more woodland retreat than animal sanctuary. Wilpattu is the biggest but has an undiscovered feel, and is home to deer, sloth bear, leopards, elephants, and more. As we trundled over the bumpy terrain, Amare (our tour leader) explained that Explore opted for Wilpattu over some of the more popular parks, where traffic jams of jeeps line the paths, obstructing views and irritating the animals.

The leopards were elusive on the day we visited, but a buffalo bathing near a baby crocodile, a party of the prettiest deer, a statuesque elephant claiming a small island as her own, show-off peacocks and a heart-melting sunset made the drive worthwhile. 
Sacred Sri Lanka is a trip in itself, but Amare did a good job of showing us the highlights. We walked barefoot up the 1,840 steps to Mihintale Mount, the site of the first Buddhist monastery, and took photos of the layered green landscape and Insta-friendly monkeys, who lounged smugly on the dramatic rockface. We were mesmerised by the Dambulla cave temple, dating from 1st century BC, each cave hiding exquisitely painted Buddhas.

And of course, Sigiriya rock, the most popular attraction of the country, and one of Sri Lanka’s seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites. This dazzling fortress, dating back to 5th century AD, was once the home of an unstable king who murdered his father and built a palace around him on top of a 200m high rock. There are 1,250 steep steps up the side of the rock to the top and it’s not for the fainthearted.

We walked up in single file, gripping tightly to the thin handrail, smiling through our uneasiness. But once up on the flat top, a new world opened, and it was as if we were floating between the sky above and the jungle below. 
I was beginning to feel like a child in a sweet shop. Sacred temples, painted frescoes, steep climbs, underground caves. For years my focus on holidays had been on keeping the kids engaged, fed, awake, safe. My eyes had been on them, not the stuff that surrounded me. For the first time in a long time, I was looking up.

The place I’d been most keen to visit was the walled city of Galle that had featured heavily in my grandfathers’ diaries, and it didn’t disappoint. Built by the Dutch in 1663, it’s the country’s southern-most tip and surrounded by ocean on three sides.

Inside the stone defences that protected the old town from the 2004 tsunami, we found Dutch colonial buildings, ancient churches, quirky cafes, and boutique hotels. 
And outside, the most beautiful beaches. I recognised the lighthouse that had appeared in one of my grandfather’s photographs. That afternoon I felt privileged to have had the opportunity to dip my toes in the water, enjoy the warmth on my shoulders. 

It was the unexpected moments along the way that will stay with me. Stopping off at a local fish market one early morning and seeing the smiling women in brightly coloured dresses pull the fish off the nets. Watching sure-footed men shimmy up tall coconut palms to collect the sap from the flower blossom (and tasting the delicious coconut toddy). Observing the grace and power of local women preparing coconuts as part of their daily ritual. Trying the unfamiliar but freshest fruits displayed along the roadside. Wandering up a crazy busy road at night only to find a gem of a bar in which to enjoy a local drink with new friends. 
If I wasn’t interacting with the group or Amare, there was always something to observe. Through the window of the bus, I watched the children walk home from school, in pairs, dressed beautifully in crisp white dresses and shorts (all uniforms are free, and the same for every school), umbrellas to shield them from the sun.

From my balcony in Negombo, I watched local families gravitate to the beach after 5pm when the sun loses its glare, children splashing, teenagers sitting on top of cars, playing western music. Wandering the streets of Kandy at sundown, thousands of starlings took over the sky and drowned out the noise of the tuk-tuks. Escaping for an early sunrise beach walk in Koggala, I met the iconic stilt fisherman waiting patiently for their catch.

"Watching through the window of our bus, the landscape changed from turquoise waters to misty mountains to lush green jungles in a matter of hours."

But the biggest surprise of my adventure wasn’t the destination. It was the people I travelled with. My group were younger than I had expected, with great energy, and so much travel experience that every day I learned something new.

When we first met, we were strangers, but five days later we’d unravelled our lives. It was an empowering experience – sharing our stories without judgement – and I realised that the trip had renewed confidence in myself I hadn’t had since before the children. 

So, did the kids survive? Did I miss them? Yes, and yes. But the joy of being six hours ahead meant my mornings were blissfully worry-free as they were sleeping while I was exploring. Most evenings after dinner and back in my room, we’d FaceTime, and I’d hear about their days. I shared pictures daily of what I’d seen and where we’d been. And although my week seemed like a lifetime of new experiences, their week sped by as usual. 
Dream destination aside, travelling in a small group was a revelation. So easy it felt like a luxury break for a juggling mid-life woman, I didn’t have to think. We packed way more in than I could ever have organised myself, thanks to Amare’s local knowledge. It was inspiring to engage with new people who had so much to offer and liberating to reconnect with the old me.

Sri Lankans have an expression they use when they greet you. ‘Aryoubowan’ means ‘may you live long.’ My grandfather lived two months shy of his 100th birthday. He always attributed his health to the Ceylon papaya and the coconut toddy. Travel is good for you. Where next? 
Take me to Sarah's trip

Has Sri Lanka made the top of your travel wish list?

Discover the 'pearl of the Indian Ocean' on a range of our small group tours:

Sri Lanka in Depth + Maldive Dhoni Cruise 
Spend 15 days immersing yourself in Sri Lanka's culture, meeting its people, and savouring its food highlights. Then, extend your trip to the Maldives for some relaxing days, cruising through paradise.

Walking in Sri Lanka
On this moderately rated walking holiday, you’ll be exploring the island’s highlights on foot which allows you to experience these special places in a different way to the less active visitor. Immerse yourself on hikes through the jungle, ascent the sacred Adam’s Peak and look for elephants on safari. 

From the saddle
Go on a circular journey in Sri Lanka by bike. Use backroads to pedal past villages, through tea fields, all the while soaking in local life and sights. 
 
Family time
Can’t go without the kids? Why not just take them along on your trip of a lifetime! Our family tour for kids up to 17 combines the best of Sri Lanka and the Maldives in a fully packed 15-day adventure. 
View all Sri Lanka tours

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Visiting Sri Lanka for the first time? Lucky you! We’ve answered some of your most-asked questions about this fascinating and beautiful country.

Top 8 dishes to try in Sri Lanka
Sri Lanka’s delicious food hints at a great culinary heritage. Here’s our guide to some of the dishes you must try while visiting Sri Lanka.  
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