You may fall in love with Accra, but it won’t be at first sight. The capital of Ghana is a sprawling, noisy, mostly traffic clogged and often frustrating place – making much like any other capital city really. It’s also situated on a beautiful swathe of the Atlantic Coast, has a budding but dynamic contemporary arts scene, red hot nightlife, good connections to the rest of the country and fabulous food, from enticing open air chophouses to the best French haute cuisine. You’ll need to hang around a while to get a handle on it all, but once you do you’ll find plenty of diamonds in the rough.
Most visitors make a beeline for Osu, a colourful and buzzy central neighbourhood where most of the city’s hotels, bars and restaurants are clustered together. ‘Oxford Street’ (in reality Cantonments Road) is the main drag, a lively string of stalls selling kente cloth, Bob Marley t-shirts, wooden sculptures and assorted tat. About halfway down you’ll get more confident about brushing off the hawkers, or nip into the side streets where you’ll find more laid back shopping in start-up boutiques dealing in fair trade and increasingly, daringly original fashion using local fabrics.