Come to Morocco for its elusive magic and exotic mystery and you will probably leave with more prosaic, yet intimate, human memories: kids playing football in a dusty square, a blind man selling bunches of fresh mint, or some good-natured banter with a babouche seller in the local souk. The romantic image is real enough, but this is also a viscerally lived-in place, a seething mass of humanity, of sounds and colour and pungent smells.
Morocco is rewarding and remarkably good value as a destination for walking and exploring. But whatever you’re doing here, it’s the nature of the place itself that gets deepest into the pores of your skin. So close to Europe, yet so very different, it has dark, dank alleys as well as magnificent desert sand dunes, dirty tanneries as well as soaring mountains and secret valleys.