Corfu is one of the most popular islands in Greece, but although it has its fair share of tourist-packed resorts, these are confined to a few areas, such as Kavos in the south and Ipsos in the east, leaving plenty of wild spaces to explore, virtually as unspoilt as they were in the Durrell brothers’ time. Head to the rocky coast in the northeast, broken up by bays of pebble beaches and easy-going villages such as Agni, famed for its great food. Also here is Lawrence Durrell’s former house in Kalami Bay. From the northeast are superb views over to mainland Albania, only a few miles away and easily visited in a day on a boat trip.
Although influenced by French and British occupation (it was a British Protectorate from 1815 to 1864), the Venetians, who ruled it for nearly 400 years, left the greatest architectural legacy. In recognition of its wealth of historical buildings, the old part of Corfu Town, with its Venetian architecture of arches, multi-storied houses and tiled roofs, was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2007. On the Spianáda, a lawned square lined with the arched colonnade of the French-designed Liston building, you can watch cricket, a sport introduced under British rule. Away from the tourist-thronged areas, lose yourself in the narrow cobbled alleyways in Campielo district, with washing fluttering gaily overhead, strung from shuttered windows.