- Accommodation was good in Zagreb, Plitvice and Stari Grad, disappointing in Split (location only) and Velinka Plana (isolated location, threatening signs in room, vastly overpriced food). It would be fine to request guests to be tidy at the Ranch but a warning of an extra 30 Euros charge if the room was messed up too much was not very friendly, especially as a quantitative penalty is suggested for an ill-defined transgression. I was not alone in mentioning that I ate more red meat in 2 dinners at the Ranch than I would have done in several months at home. The charge of 250 kuna for dinner at the Ranch with no choice was out of line with all my other experience in Croatia. Elsewhere I rarely spent more than half this and always had a choice.
Although I can't be sure of what is possible, we had a very early morning start from Velinka Plana and appeared to almost retrace the route of the previous evening before reaching Zavizan. Surely there must be some suitable accommodation nearer to Zavizan. I doubt Plitvice itself was any further from Zavizan than the Linden Tree Ranch and we could have stayed in Plitvice an extra night and had a longer walk in Plitvice Lakes National Park.
Clearly the lakes are a marvellous location even if somewhat spoiled by being so very busy (not that much can be done about that). The hike on the Premuziceva trail was excellent - and what a contrast to the previous day in quietness. Paklenica Gorge was perhaps not quite up to level of N Velebit but benefitted from a better local guide.
Published on: 18 October 2016